Masks of hide and horn
Some of the masked figures wear bells, as here in the Rhodope Mountains. They make a huge racket when they move, and can weigh up to sixty kilos
Foto: Aron Klein
The tradition of ritual masking in Bulgaria dates back to pre-Christian times, and it's still very much alive today. It comes in different guises: there are local variations, and the masked figures go by different names: Kukeri, Survakari, Dzhamalari or Babugeri. The festivities take place either in January or at the start of spring, during carnival season.
Masked figures traipse from house to house through the village, wishing everyone — and the whole community — health, fertility and prosperity. In return, the mask wearers are given traditional food: meat, fruit and drink, often the fruit brandy rakija or wine. These days, people also give the troupe money. In the evening, everyone gathers in a central square to round off the celebration with a shared feast. Among the Survakari in western Bulgaria especially, fires are lit and people dance the horo, a traditional dance.
“Everyone makes their own mask, so no two are alike”
Until the early 20th century, only young, unmarried men wore the masks, and it was an initiation rite. In recent decades women have joined in, and today whole families take part. The tradition is hugely popular and mask styles are passed down from generation to generation. Plenty of children eagerly join the masked groups and learn to create their own costumes.
There are two basic costume types, inspired by animals or humans. The Survakari make masks mainly from wood, animal hides, horns and feathers. Kukeri groups also work fabric, coloured thread and beads in alongside the hides. Some masks today stand up to two metres tall.
Within each group, everyone makes their own mask, so no two are alike. The key figures they represent include the “Bride and Groom” in wedding dress, the “Priest”, who stages a mock wedding in every house he visits, “Bear and Bear-Keeper”, the “King of the Kukeri” and the “Old Woman”.
These days, mask festivals are now held across Bulgaria, drawing large numbers of participants and tourists from home and abroad. The bigger events include the International Festival of Masquerade Games “Surva” in Pernik and the “Kukerlandia” festival in Yambol.